London fashion week always brings together an eclectic group of designers. This season was no different. From Christopher Bailey’s, Henry Moore inspired sculptural silhouettes to Erdem Moralioglu’s dose of red carpet worthy dresses taking hints from his British-Turkish heritage to Roland Mouret’s offering of his famed Galaxy dresses with fresh urbane twist, there was something for everyone. 

Here are some of the coolest shows from London Fashion Week.

1. Roland Mouret Fall 2017: Roland Mouret’s understanding of London’s cool vibe makes him a standout among a flurry of high-browed Parisian designers. He made a come back to the London runways after almost 17 years, and with his latest show and marked 20th anniversary of his label. Sticking to his signature-solid-structures and experimenting with a blitzkrieg of hues such as yellow, blues and lilac, Roland gave a perfect party-style recipe. Pieces that stood out for us were his new age Galaxy dresses with straps, off shoulder tweed top with sliced velvet pants, wrap jackets fixed at the front with kilt pins. If one had to witness a blend of Parisian chic and elements of British conservative charm, this was it.  

2. Erdem Fall 2017: How would a dream look like on the runway? Erdem Moralioglu had some answers. Known for his feminine and often romantic designs, Erdem’s tea dresses, embroidered and embellished overcoats and asymmetric lace summer dresses defined his dream, where his maternal Turkish grandmother meets his paternal English grandmother. Models clad in dresses with hallucinatory layers of velvet and use of the most striking florals and Turkish miniature prints set a strong tone for his multicultural roots.

3. Burberry Fall 2017: Christopher Bailey’s ability to whip heritage with trends positions him as one of the leading names in fashion. This time the inspiration was Henry Moore, the famed British artist and sculpture, known for his semi-abstract bronzes. Oversized trenches, tweed jackets with bell sleeves, Aran knits in an array of silhouettes paired with shearling overcoats summed up the collection. Burberry, which is known for its love for colour, dwelled into a much toned down plate of black, white and grey, taking inspirations from Henry Moore’s daily wardrobe itself.  Among those solid silhouettes were a few demure evening pieces tucked under off-shoulder tops and cropped Aran cardigans. Overall the ensemble spoke a very different language of sobriety and British charm that Burberry as a label is related to. 

4. Teatum Jones Fall 2017: Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones surely know how to do sexy. These 2016 Woolmark Prize winners have been credited for their experiments with fabrics and an artisanal approach to design. One look at their recent collection will cement the fact. Their latest collection was inspired by Hans Bellmer, the German artist who created dolls in mutated forms and unconventional poses to rapture the image of ‘perfect body shape’  which was being popularised in the then Germany. The designer duo engaged models with visible physical disabilities and created pieces which were daring yet tasteful. Angular cutout details, off-shoulder tops, uneven layering, sexy trenches and high waisted skirts with harnessed details summed up their collection. 

5. Emilia Wickstead 2017: Feminine, crisp and easy, sum up her design vocabulary. And all these elements stood out in Emilia Wickstead’s latest collection, too. This time she got inspired by the work of 19th-century Russian noblewoman and photographer, Natalia Shabelsky, who travelled around Russia, photographing ordinary women clad in the most extravagant dresses. The collection comprised of Emilia’s signature high waisted skirts and shirts. This season she also plunged into off-shoulder blouses paired with ankle length dresses, pieces with gathered detailing at the waist, long pleated velvet skirts, round-shouldered floral tops, just to give her collection a casual flair.

6. Molly Godard 2017: Want to see how British aristocrats attended fancy tea parties in the good old Victorian days. Molly Godard was surely serving up some cues. Known for her immaculate layering and usage of tulle, she knows how to infuse fun in serious fashion. Ruched trousers, voluminous tops, striped cardigans, tutus paired with cropped jackets set her youthful tone strong for this fall.