“I believe, imperfections are the true indicators of human sensibilities. It differentiates handmade from machine-made products”
Exquisite block printed cotton dresses, tunics in subtle hues, androgynous see-through shirts, and a range of everyday wear, for anyone with a discerning eye, these might be some definitive basics in a modern, evergreen wardrobe. But for Raffughar’s Wajahat Rather, more than his designs the message is in his intent. He wants to showcase the expansive vocabulary of Kashmir’s local techniques and create a narrative that pays homage to the darners/healers of his home state. They were craftsmen who used to mend damaged, dated clothes and prevent them from being discarded. It was during his final year at Craft Development Institute, Srinagar when Rather learned about them and soon decided to dedicate his label to these fabric healers.
Soon after graduating from NID, he launched his slow fashion label in 2009. His aim was to embrace the multi-pronged approach to sustainability. It was not just about celebrating the handmade, or producing in small batches but it was also about finding the right way of experimenting with traditional techniques—without taking away their essence. And since the inception of his label. Rather has been successful in doing so.
Be it Dastavaiz, a collection in which they used block prints inspired from Urdu calligraphy or Parvaaz, featuring block motifs inspired from the birds of Kashmir or Tarakh Maal, a collection inspired by Kashmir’s ‘Khatambandh’ art, the motto of his brand is to reimagine design, nature, and craft in a new light.
On creating a meaningful narrative
We draw inspiration from nature, culture, and heritage and use them as contemporary design elements. Kashmir’s rich ensemble of traditional silhouettes and my own interest in exploring the different dimensions of the Himalayan region’s motifs and calligraphy are evident in the collections. A juxtaposition of the past and the present reflects in our work. Our work can be better defined as “Museum to Barcode”. I believe that design does not happen in isolation, it happens through a synergetic and collaborative approach. I want to collaborate with people and give due credits to the artisans and skilled people who are a very important part of the design thinking and process.
On his millennial-friendly design interventions
Raffughar truly believes in paying attention to the details. With its ethics-focused production model and environmentally conscious designs, the brand’s collections are produced in small batches. Our products are entirely made by hand. From weaving, embroideries, hand-stitched buttonhole, and to the last trims, it passes through the hands of various artisans depending on their skill set. I believe, imperfections are the true indicators of human sensibilities. It differentiates handmade from machine-made products.
We see Raffughar as a global brand rooted in its identity, staying truthful to the aesthetics that are shaping it. It is a fair-trade sustainable brand, carving a niche for itself in the ‘gender equality’ market, not just for clients but also as a means of providing sustenance to people we work with irrespective of their gender or orientation.
On a rewired sense of sustainability post COVID-19
In the past, fashion was only seen as a glamorous pursuit, but now designers are remodeling fashion as not just luxury, but as a solution to many problems. They are now focusing on affordability, user comfort, and sustainability as well.
Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, design houses are facing a huge challenge of sustaining their business amidst the loss of revenue, and pending bills to run their studios.
As fashion sits at the intersection of art and utility, it has the power and responsibility to create substantial solutions [post-COVID-19] that I believe will help to stitch back together communities that are healthier, stronger, and more artistic.
Having said that we have also seen across society, the pandemic could trigger a reversal of sustainability trends. In the US, the Environmental Protection Agency has temporarily relaxed pollution enforcement to allow companies to focus on survival—with no end date set. Some consumers and retailers are rejecting reusable grocery bags as unsanitary, and many cities and states are reversing recent bans on plastic bags. Stores are readopting throwaway plastic containers or plastic wrapping on fruit and vegetables. I guess there is mix signal we get in the department of sustainability.
On his latest collection
At the moment we are working on a collection which is called ‘’Maazi”. This collection is a recollection of the memories of the past and nostalgia.
My sense of nostalgia is represented by paisley motifs which are changing and recreating the blurred memories. Post-COVID, we have seen a ‘phygital’ reality, which is a combination of both physical and virtual platforms. I have tried to show it through glitch and metamorphosis of embroidery motifs like melting paisleys, pixelated motifs, and those which change into barcodes. We have our signature style contemporary pheran silhouettes for summer. Tulip hem and toor Trousers with block printing are also part of this range.
