To cut a garment in the simplest way to achieve a certain result is akin to solving a math problem.

Payal Khandwala’s unique sense of cuts and silhouettes is an extension of her passion for art. Be it being inspired by an array of artists such as Richard Serra and Franz Kline or working with hand-woven fabrics created by craftsmen from Varanasi and Bengal, Payal’s work thrives on an eclectic mix of sources.

After graduating from Parsons in 1999 she began exploring varied facets of art. An extensive program at Metafora, Barcelona in 2005 led her to continue working as an artist. Post her substantial experience with prestigious art galleries in New York, London, and Barcelona, Payal launched her eponymous fashion label in 2012.

Over the years, Payal’s work has been drawing parallels between her obsession with canvas and her need to create fashion for discerning women. Crisp and colorful, her pieces exude a refined sense of luxury.

For all those who believe: fashion runs beyond the ramp, we got Payal Khandwala herself to decode her oeuvre and her personal style.

Read on.

On personal style

My personal style is an extension of my personality, which is both free spirited and practical. I like my clothes to be luxurious but also always comfortable. So, I like layered separates that keep my wardrobe choices unpredictable, some elements of drapery married with elements of men’s tailoring. It’s a strong look, fierce but also feminine.

I have lots of tunics with collars, shirts, saris and palazzos. I love saris and brocades, the king of textiles and have a few of them in modern silhouettes for more formal occasions.

Payal Khandwala ‘The New Emperor’ Campaign

Art, geometry, and fashion

I use geometry as a tool to simplify. To cut a garment in the simplest way to achieve a certain result is akin to solving a math problem. It requires logic and process. And I enjoy that. I find it is also a challenge to start draping from humble beginnings, a square, a circle and then to build with pleating, tucking, folding. It is a great way to resolve ideas and stumble upon new ones.

Subliminally it influences the way I dress because I have a continued interest in proportions and when I pick something to wear I am very cognizant of the length of my trouser in relation to the length of my tunic or the width of my shirt. In this way, I suppose it does influence how I dress, or at least the choices I make.

Pro-tips for women

I would say first and foremost, don’t be a slave to fashion, because fashion is so fleeting. The style is more rewarding and lasts forever. So go with silhouettes that you are comfortable with, that allow you to be yourself. Confidence makes you a lot more attractive than a fitted dress. Pick separates so that you can play a little, experiment with your layers so that your wardrobe doesn’t become predictable, and therefore pick colors and prints wisely when you walk into the room your clothes should maximize your personality. Don’t let your clothes wear you.

On blending art with fashion

As a painter, I use composition, colour, and line to communicate an idea and when I design clothes it’s not that different. I use line, proportions and colour to achieve an initial idea. So in that respect, it is simply a shift in canvas for me. I’m inspired by the same formal elements when I paint or when I’m patterning something new, and because I don’t really care about fashion, as much as I do about style, the way I approach dressmaking is what sets our clothes apart. The prism with which I see clothes is our primary differentiator.

I grew up in Mumbai, spent 8 years studying at Parsons and working in New York, and spent some time studying art and living in Barcelona. So multicultural cities are an integral part of my creative makeup. My exposure to street style, art school, amongst other popular culture triggers inform many of the choices I make design-wise and it definitely shapes my aesthetic. I find that it is deeply rooted in India but has a spirit that is more global.