The name Tilfi is actually a type of technique in Banarasi weaving, where three meenakari yarns run continuously without a break.

Handloom labels in India can be credited for stirring up the conversation of cultural preservation via fashion. Often punctuated with issues pertaining to sustainability with a focus on conditions surrounding weavers and local craftsmen, the conversational thread somehow seems to stop at a point. 

A number of homegrown handloom labels today pose a direct answer to prêt-labels tilting towards the western form. Being driven with the singular goal of preserving India’s cultural heritage provides them with a momentary validation and applaud. But how can a label perform the balancing act of pulling along the country’s age-old, rich handloom techniques and revamping them to cater to the needs of discerning clients of today? Tilfi-the label, might have some answers.

This Banaras based label was born out of a simple need to make traditional weaves trendy. And by making e-commerce a significant part of its business model Tilfi’s team is already heading a silent revolution. Its founder Udit Khanna admired Indian weaves and weavers since his childhood and has never shied away from expressing his love for the same. 

When he was just 7, he dressed up as a weaver to participate in a fancy-dress competition at his school. And the passion still continues. Born in a Banaras-based family which has been in the handloom business for 3 generations, Udit’s understanding of the trade began with his grandfather. Being surrounded by colourful sarees and closely observing an army of weavers delicately handling the exquisite Banarasi drapes fed his fantasies as a kid.

However, young Udit’s initial tryst with his family business did not last long. He moved out of his hometown to pursue higher studies and landed up working in the UK. 

In 2013 while on a holiday in Banaras with his wife Aditi and brother Ujjwal, a path-breaking conversation led to the formation of Tilfi-the label. One of the weavers working for their family-owned business was lamenting over his sons’ unwillingness to take the craft forward.  In reciprocation, the young trio gave him ideas on how he could motivate them to pursue their “hunar”. The old man in return simply queried their decision of not joining the family business. A moment’s self-reflection made the inherent hypocrisy of their stance clear.  They were faced with one major question “How could we hope to preserve and further this beautiful art and persuade others to join the trade if we wouldn’t do it ourselves?”. This realization pushed Udit to immerse himself fully in the family business. Though there was a lot to be done but Tilfi’s founders figured out a gap in the market. People wanted to see Banarasi weaves in a completely new light.

For almost three years, Udit, Ujjual, and Aditi traveled extensively and equipped themselves with the technical know-how pertaining to Banarasi weaves. They finally gave up their jobs in the UK and returned to India and launched Tilfi 2016.

Here is everything you need to know about this label.

Significance Of The Name 

The name Tilfi is actually a type of technique in Banarasi weaving, where three meenakari yarns run continuously without a break. For us, Tilfi stands for three ideals –

Pure. All our products are woven in natural fabrics. All-natural fabrics give our products the lasting quality and luxury that have been characteristic of fine Banarasi weaving for centuries. 

Handmade. Each piece on Tilfi is hand-woven and steeped in India’s rich textile heritage. Each garment is a labour of love and the product of our team’s deep knowledge and understanding of the craft. 

Banaras. All our fabrics are handwoven in Banaras and its surrounding areas. We take great pride in carrying forward this historic textile center’s legacy of skilled craftsmanship.

By focusing on these three principles, Tilfi invests in the riches of Banaras’ past, in the present, to give our exquisite handcrafts – a future.

Experiments 

Many of our experiments have been around design. Our Kashi saree with the ghat-scape along its borders was one such experiment – an unconventional pattern in a traditional weave for a striking result. Motivated by how well that particular saree was received, we have many more contemporary designs in time-tested techniques in the pipeline.

We’ve also experimented with traditional dyeing techniques in our khadi georgette and spun silk sarees. Tie-and-dye, Shibori, hand-painted patterns and even Kutchi Bandhani have resulted in a beautiful amalgamation of our arts. 

In yarns, we work across the span of Banaras’ repertoire including katan, kora, tussar, georgettes and cotton etc. We’ve experimented with some interesting fabric variants in the past, such as tussar georgettes, cheenias and silk tissue. We’re continuing to innovate in weaves and will be launching an interesting blend – new to our Banarasi weavers – shortly. 

In our stitched clothing, we’ve chosen to move beyond standard lehengas and anarkalis and have experimented with Banarasi jackets in modern silhouettes. 

Pushing The Boundaries 

What we find intriguing about the Banarasi weave are the limits of its possibilities. Whilst most efforts in Banarasi weaving are focused on revivals, we’ve never been motivated by that as a goal. A quick visit to a textile or palace museum, and it is astounding to see how the craft has endured through time. The designs and weaves that were once patronized by royalty are woven even today! Sure, the zari isn’t always real silver and gold and the patterns aren’t as dense, but the techniques and the craftsmanship have remained largely the same. 

What is fascinating for us, instead, are the boundaries of the craft and how they can be pushed. Banarasi is possibly the finest, most luxurious and most advanced handweaving crafts surviving in the world today. There is so much more that can be done with it.

Vision 

It is a wonderful time for fashion and our heritage weaves! With the wearer becoming increasingly conscious of the provenance and implications of her clothes, our traditional crafts have experienced a boost of sorts. We’re optimistic about the future!

Our vision is to establish Banarasi in its rightful place of true luxury, one built on foundations of purity, craftsmanship, artistry, and durability, not one defined by price and exclusivity.